The Holy City (Understanding The Past)

It was 24 ^th October 2014. A day on which I would be visiting the most important sites in Jerusalem to feel the “presence” of the Holy City and perhaps to seek to understand why Jerusalem is “everything” to the three monotheistic religions of Judaism Islam and Christianity. The Old City of Jerusalem is divided into four sections (clockwise as follows) : The Jewish Quarter the Armenian Quarter the Christian Quarter and the Muslim Quarter. Despite the fluid situation in the Middle East (in Israel in particular) somehow tens of thousands of people make their way there every year and pilgrimage to the Holy Land continues…

Joining tour groups is not normally my cup of tea because I find them too regimented and restrictive. Following and listening to a tour guide does not give me the opportunity for personal reflections or sufficient time to take photographs (of interest to me). However because of security reason in Israel I had decided that we would join a day tour for the journey into Jerusalem. On this particular day our organised tour was to take us to the Old City of Jerusalem after visiting first the Garden of Gethsemane. However because of extraneous circumstances (which I will explain later in this article) we did not have the opportunity to enter Gethsemane.

Our journey into the Holy Land began from Ashdod (the port city of Israel to which we had earlier sailed from Rome (Civitavecchia). Since we were to travel to and approach Jerusalem (by coach) from Ashdod our journey would first take us to the Mount of Olives towards Gethsemane. The Mount of Olives is actually two hilltops perched east of the Temple Mount and west of the Judean desert. It was mid morning when we first caught sight of the Holy City from afar with the Dome of the Rock conspicuously dazzling under the morning sun.

A distant view of the Holy City

By the time we reached the Mount of Olives the road leading to Gethsemane had already been cordoned off because it was Friday-an important day for Muslims to attend prayers at the nearby Al-Aqsa Mosque . Since we were not permitted to enter Gethsemane (at that time) it became necessary for us to reschedule. Our guide therefore made adjustment to our itinerary and we left the Mount of Olives with the intention of (us) coming back to Gethsemane later in the afternoon. Our driver then took us to the Jaffa Gate outside the Old City of Jerusalem.

From Gethsemane to Jaffa Gate

Approaching Jaffa Gate

We disembarked outside the wall and continued our journey on foot into the Old City through the Jaffa Gate to David Street turning left into the Christian Quarter.

Greek Catholic Patriarchate St.

Christian Quarter St.

Mosque of Omar

We walked along the Greek Catholic Patriarchate St. and continued walking until we saw the “Mosque of Omar”…and then through the Arch into the Plaza of the Holy Sepulchre….We learned that in the 30s CE (33 AD) when Jesus was tried and crucified by Pontius Pilot (Roman Procurator of Judea 26-36 CE) this spot lay outside the Old City wall (not to be confused with the current 16^th century wall). It was just outside the Garden Gate – the garden cemetery mentioned in the Gospel of John: “There was a garden where Jesus was crucified”-John 19:41. Liturgical celebrations were held here until the First Jewish Revolt beginning in 66 CE against Rome when many Jerusalem Christians fled for safely to the city of Pella (in modern Jordan).

The Plaza of the Holy Sepulchre

The Arch of Holy Sepulchre

The early Jerusalem Christian community never lost memory of the place where Christ was crucified and buried. Constantine began building the first church on the spot in 326 CE. The church was set on fire by the Persians in 614 CE and reconstructed by Modestus the Greek Orthodox Patriarch of Jerusalem. When the Muslim took control of Jerusalem in 638 CE the church came under the protection of two ruling dynasties the Umayyad and the Abbasid until it was once again destroyed by Fatimid caliph Hakim in 1009 CE. The current church was constructed in 1012-1170 CE.

The entrance to the Church of Holy Sepulchre

The Stone of Unction (Anointing)

This modern Greek Orthodox mosaic hangs behind the Stone of Unction (Anointing) and can be seen as we enter the Church.

We entered the Church of the Holy Sepulchre believed to enshrine the sites of Christ’s crucifixion entombment and resurrection. As soon as we passed through the entrance door the Stone of Unction appeared before us . The Stone is not ancient but was placed here (1810 CE) after the fire that destroyed the previous stone that had been here since the time of the Crusaders in the 1100’s. It is a traditional commemoration of the preparation of Jesus’ body for burial (the focus of modern Orthodox Christian veneration) which I (born and raised in the Lutheran tradition) had come to appreciate…

Ascending Golgotha

We took a sharp turn to ascend what is left of Golgotha after 2000 years of wears by pilgrims and tears by visitors and others (the steps are worn with shallow dips and the stairs tilt slightly to the left). These are the eighteen steps up to Calvary. The rock of Calvary is located a few feet on the other side of this wall but once we reached the top of the steps we enter and saw underneath the high Greek Orthodox altar the mount upon which Christ was crucified. A hole under the altar allows one to touch (in veneration) the bedrock of Calvary at a spot that is traditionally believed to be near the place where the base of the cross was placed. On both sides of the altar we could see (through the viewing glass) the original bedrock of Calvary (Golgotha or “The Skull”) .

The high Greek Orthodox altar. Underneath the altar is the bedrock of Calvary at a spot that is traditionally believed to be near the place where the base of the cross was placed.

The faithfuls queuing to touch the bedrock

The faithful touching the bedrock of Calvary in veneration

We learned from historian Josephus’s description of the Garden Gate and the early Byzantine tradition that Jesus was flogged near the Zion Gate of the Armenian Quarter (see The Armenian Quarter “the way of the cross” below). Below the Church of Holy Sepulchre was an abandoned hilly limestone rock quarry. Archeological evidence revealed that in ancient time abandoned limestone quarries often were turned into cemeteries. Joseph Arimathea dug a tomb that he bequeathed to Christ– Matthew 27:59-61 (also Mark 15:46-47; Luke 23:53).

The dome of the Rotunda. This is the inside of the larger grey dome of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

The Rotunda

Right in the middle of the Rotunda in the Holy Sepulchre is the Tomb of Jesus.

The Aedicula. The current shrine over the tomb (replacing a series of shrines going back to the fourth centuries) dates only to 1810 CE.

For this reason in the Church of Holy Sepulchre the tomb (managed by Greek Orthodox Church which dates back to the book of Acts) is close to Golgotha and there is a Greek Orthodox chapel with a knee-high pillar and a circular button marking it as half way between Calvary and the tomb.

Today when we entered this enormous Church to ascend Golgotha we were also able to descend to and walk around the Rotunda to visit the Tomb under the roof of one enormous church (as is currently defined). In 1009 CE Caliph al-Hakim destroyed the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and crushed the stone block around the tomb that was left by Constantine (though eyewitness reported that the tomb-chamber was left intact). The current shrine over the tomb (replacing a series of shrines going back to the fourth centuries) dates only to 1810 CE.

For further reading:http://www.biblearchaeology.org/post/2010/01/11/golgotha-a-reconsideration-of-the-evidence-for-the-sites-of-jesuse28099-crucifixion-and-burial.aspx#Article

We learned that the key to the Church of Holy Sepulchre (the holiest spot in Christendom) was given to two Muslim families eight hundred years ago in whose keeping it still remains in order to open the Church every morning at dawn and lock it at dark. On the Via Dolorosa we met one of the men from these families …

The man who (at the time of our visit) holds the key to the Church of Holy Sepulchre

Part of the Via Dolorosa that we walked on today was created by the Crusaders who brought the 14 Stations from Roman Catholic Europe (see Armenian Quarter “the way of the cross” below). The Crusaders assumed that the LITHOSTRATOS beneath the Sisters of Zion was the pavement of Antonio Fortress which they mistook was the Praetorium where Jesus was tried before Pontius Pilate. That pavement however is dated by archeologists to Hadrian’s reconstruction of the City in 135 CE. Alternative routes are followed by those with different opinion but for some pilgrims, the actual route taken by Jesus along the Via Dolorosa is of smaller importance. The pilgrimage itself—with the reflection on the events along the way due to the proximity to the sites—has greater and deeper meaning attached.

For some the pilgrimage itself (with the reflection on the events along the way due to the proximity to the sites) has greater and deeper meaning attached.

DOME OF THE ROCK

The Dome of the Rock was built between 688-691 CE by Umayyad caliph Abdul al-Malik (the first major sanctuary built by Islam and the only one to have survived essentially intact) and access currently is denied to non-Muslims. It is believed that Umayyad caliph Abdul al-Malik wanted to usurp Judaism and Christianity by claiming the Temple spot. The Crusaders converted it into a church that they called “The Temple of The Lord” but Saladin in 1187 CE removed the altar and converted it again into a mosque. The second staircase to the left is now off limit to non-Muslims and on this occasion we did not have the opportunity to enter the Dome but were able only to look to the far northwest corner to the tall minaret that is today part of a Muslim school.

JEWISH QUARTER

The Temple Mount (Har Ha-Bayit or Haram esh-Sharif) and The Western Wall (Hakotel HaMa’aravi).

The Temple Mount is holy to Jews Christians and Muslim. Here Solomon built the Temple on the site (2 Chronicles 3:1) where Abraham went to sacrifice Isaac (Genesis 22). The first Temple was destroyed by the Babylonians in 586 BCE and then rebuilt in 516 BCE (under the auspices of prophets Haggai and Zechariah). The current esplanade is Herodian. Herod expanded the Temple Mount with immense and strong retaining walls of which part survived until today. The barrier between Jews and Gentiles was broken down by Christ in Ephesians 2:14 “For He Himself is our peace who has made both one and has broken down the middle wall of separation” and Ephesians 2: 17-18 “For he came and preached peace to you who were afar off and to those who were near. For through Him we both have access by one Spirit to the Father”…

Today we were able to enter and visit the Jewish Quarter. After passing through tight security checks we were able to visit the Wailing Wall or Kotel. — Albeit only one eighth (180 feet) of the Western Wall.

Approaching security check points

Going through security check points

The huge beveled stones which extend well beneath ground level are Herodian. The medium-sized stones are from the seventh century while the small ones at the top were restoration after the earthquake of 1033 CE.This western bottom of Herod’s retaining wall that surrounded the Temple survived as the holiest place in Judaism. There is a separate section for women and it is traditional to write prayer on a small piece of paper and place it in the cracks of the wall…

The Western Wall (180 feet/55M)

The men’s quarter with some perhaps trying to visualize the event that led to the second destruction of the Temple by the Romans in 70 CE which resulted major in historical upheavals that would eventually affect the Abrahamic religions.

The women’s quarter

On this Friday I was able to take photograph but was given to understand that no writing or photography is allowed in the Western Wall Plaza on The men’s quarter with Shabbat due to Jewish law…

Hurva Synagogue

Many important archeological finds have been made along the Cardo Maximus and its network of alleyways.

ARMENIAN QUARTER

After leaving the Jewish Quarter we passed the open excavation of Cardos Maximus into the Armenian Quarter. The excavated Cardo Maximus (150M stretch) can be seen in an open air section in the heart of the Jewish quarter between the Jews street and Chabad street. This section is 2.5M under the modern street level. Its width is 22.5M and is flanked by a row of 5M high pillars on both sides of the road.

I was wondering why there was an Armenian quarter in Old Jerusalem until I learned that Armenia (situated below Russia and next to Turkey) had already been converted to Christianity before the end of third century and was the first nation to do so. From Zion Gate we make our way along the Armenian Orthodox Patriarchate Road passing David’s Tower Museum (The Citadel) back to Jaffa Gate…

In this area stood Herod’s palace which became the Praetorium (Matthew 27:27; Mark 15; 16) of the Roman procurator after Heriod’s son fell out of favour with Rome in 6 CE. This was where Jesus was tried by Pontius Pilot and was marched out (“the way of the cross”) to Golgotha (currently the Church of Holy Sepulchre) where also lay the garden cemetery mentioned in the Gospel of John (John 19:41). While the Holy Sepulchre is currently inside the 16^th century walls it was outside the city walls at the time of Jesus’ trial ca. 30 CE.

The view of this section from the Cardo street level. The modern street and the Jewish quarter houses are seen above the Cardo

GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE

After our visit to the Old City we attempted for the second time to enter the Garden of Gethsemane but we were once again prevented from doing so (under different circumstances). As we were approaching the area several masked individuals (some with hoods) ran towards our coach…They were preventing us from entering the area (for reason beyond my comprehension).

Aggressors still running towards us as we retreated

These were aggressive and violent individuals. They were hurling rocks at our coach. Whoever these masked individuals were they would have recognised (known) that our coach was just a tour bus carrying a group of harmless and peaceful pilgrims/tourists /visitors. I was sitting in the third row. I heard the thudding sound of the rocks against the windshield before I saw the attackers. We realized that we were being attacked without provocation. The rocks were hurled at our coach (flying) in succession. I understand that in Israel due to terrorists attacks on buses general bus builders have some commercial buses retro-fitted with bulletproof glass. I wasn’t sure whether our coach was specially fitted but the windshield remained intact with only visible scratch marks left behind by the projectiles. We were stunned and in shock. It took me a few seconds to recollect myself before I managed to make use of my camera. The atmosphere was very tense. Our driver kept his cool and reversed the coach out of the danger zone…The security personnel (who were actually around while we were retreating) restrained themselves and refrained from taking actions against the offenders.

Events such as this (witnessed by us) are seldom reported by bias media. We were informed that three days prior to our arrival in Jerusalem a young driver identified as a 21-year-old from the east Jerusalem neighbourhood of Silwan was shot by security forces after he rammed his car into a train station injuring seven and killing a baby in the process. It was the second such deadly attack with a vehicle in the city in just under three months.The tense situation flared into a full-fledged riot (a week after our visit) and by the time we arrived Corinth (from the Holy Land) we learned that the Government found it necessary to close the Holy City for the first time in 14 years. It was subsequently reopened for men over 50 and women with legislation being put in place to impose stiff sentences for those found guilty of stone-throwing.

Somehow despite this unpleasant incident that I experienced at Gethsemane there was a contrasting picture in my mind. I recalled (see the post “Steps of Paul” on this site) that during my journey to Antakya (Antioch) Turkey in 2009 two very friendly Muslims (random acquaintances) took me on their motorbike to St. Peter’s Cave Church the façade of which was built by the Crusaders (during their occupation) after the siege of Antioch in the First Crusade.

Matthew 23:37 (NIV) —“Jerusalem, Jerusalem, you who kill the prophets and stone those sent to you, how often I have longed to gather your children together, as a hen gathers her chicks under her wings, and you were not willing.”

Will there be willingness?

Peace be with you

Nicholas

Just a thought: The Spirit guides us if we are willing. Blessings come in many forms. People come into our lives unexpectedly and for a reason. On this pilgrimage to the Holy Land we were blessed with the opportunity to cross path with Ed and Sarah (from Nashville Tennessee whom we met for the first time). Ed and Sarah introduced us to Lamontte M. Luker a professor of Hebrew Scriptures at Lutheran Theological Southern Seminary Columbia South Carolina. Dr. Luker also serves as faculty associate in the Department of religious Studies at the University of South Carolina and as adjunct professor of Old Testament at the Jerusalem Centre for Biblical Studies. We were invited as guests to his lectures and he shared his immense knowledge with us as students in the Bible Lands.

My thoughts are also on cyber-archaeology. Cyber-Archaeology in the Holy Land, by Thomas E. Levy et al., concludes with these words:

We should not lose sight of what drives our quest to perfect Cyber-Archaeology in the field and lab: historical and cultural questions that lie at the center of anthropology, history and other fields. The new developments in digital technologies and their relative low costs have made it essential for archaeologists to figure out ways to ingest, manage, curate, analyze, publish and share these large datasets with colleagues and the public. We believe the Cyber-Archaeology research in Jordan will not only reshape research in the southern Levant, but also the broader world of archaeology.

My journey continues…