Journey to Siberia and beyond

Intoduction

It is the month of May. Leaving allergic rhinitis aside, it is my favourite month of the year. It is in the middle of Spring, with the promise of a beautiful and lively Summer (perhaps even in Siberia). This month of May is especially special for me as we would be weaving along railway lines towards the “unknown”- to Siberia and beyond…

I have flown by planes, driven cars, sailed on cruise liners and traveled by trains (both fast and slow) for quite many years now. My favourite mode of transportation in this modern age and uncertain time is undoubtedly by train despite the fact that on occasions I had to sacrifice a bit of creature comfort. I was fully aware, in the process of planning for this journey by train, that we now live in unstable and dangerous times. It was all in the news in the Spring of 2016. In Brazil an economic and civil upheaval was happening before the Olympics. But more importantly the world is in despair with political instability almost everywhere. Brussels, Iran, North Korea, Paris, Syria, and the list goes on. So I chose train travel if I could. There is less bureaucracy and the security check-in for train travel is relatively a breeze. Train (some with wifi on board) can also be considered a gadget paradise with electrical outlets fitted in cabins where one will not have to experience the frustration of a drained out battery. Whether rain or shine, inclement weather or otherwise, the train runs. Looking out, looking in front, looking behind we have a vista of passing and ever-changing scenery and because the luggage are travelling with us or even besides us there is no need for us to look or even wait for them at the end of our journey.

When I mentioned to relatives and friends that I would soon be embarking on a journey by train from Moscow to Beijing I could sense that a picture would form in their minds of the romance of the “Orient Express”. While “journey by train” from Russia to China conjures up a picture of romantic travel; the reverse, “transportation by train to Siberia” conjures up a picture of deportation, forced settlement, hard labour and death. There were many unfortunate events in human history concerning Siberia. However, I learned that some who had survived those Siberian tragedies had eventually lived out the rest of their lives bringing good to humanity. From these survivors (who could forgive and give) we need to draw our lessons. Little had I realized that this journey of mine would unexpectedly and ultimately also turn out to be a lesson for me as a “Journey of Forgiveness”.

Motivation

On the other side of Asia bordering Russian Siberia lies Northern China (what used to be known as Manchuria). It is officially known as the Northeast. Manchuria  is separated from Russia largely by the Amur, Argun, and the Ussuri rivers; from North Korea by the Yalu and Tumen rivers, and from Mongolia by the Da Hinggan Mountains. The Manchu people formed the last imperial Qing dynasty of China (1644 – 1912). The 1800s of the Qin Dynasty is of special interests to me as a descendant of the Hong (Hakka Fung) clan who were involved in the Taiping Civil War. From 1850 to 1864 The “Taiping Rebellion” or “Taiping Civil War” was fought between the established Manchu-led Qing Dynasty and the Christian millenarian. The Taiping Rebellion began in southwestern province when local officials launched a campaign of persecution against a Christian sect led by Hong (Fung) Xiuquan who was a Hakka. The scholar of Chinese history Stephen Platt recounted these events in spellbinding detail in his book “Autumn in the Heavenly Kingdom”. Until recent time what had happened had been labelled by the victors as a “rebellion”. In his book (with in-depth research) Stephen Platt described it as a “Civil War” and framed his story about two (2) fascinating characters with opposing visions for the future of China. On the side of the Qing was Zeng Guofan (a conservative Confucian scholar) who emerged as the most influential military strategist in China’s modern history and Hong Rengan a brilliant Taiping leader whose grand vision of building a modern, industrial, and pro-Western Chinese state ended in tragic failure. The irony was that the Western powers in the Taiping Civil War eventually sided with the Manchu-led Qing Dynasty and defeated the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom Movement of Hongs (Fungs). Hong Rengan was executed by the Qing authorities in Nanchang on 23 November 1864.

The Qing authorities continued to commit unspeakable massacres against the Hakkas, executing at least 30,000 Hakkas each day during the height of their operation. Christian Hakka descendants of the Hong (Fung) clan and other Hakkas sought “self-exile” overseas. Some emigrated in order to escape the persecution by the Qing imperial forces which were seeking to exterminate all remnants of the Taiping Kingdom. So my great grandfather emigrated with his wife and three children to Guyana aboard the Dartmouth which landed in Georgetown on 17 March 1879. After living there for a number of years in British Guyana they returned to China and eventually migrated to British North Borneo where my father and I were born.

History has shown us many lessons about the “Victors and the Vanquished” but we only choose to point to and remember events that have bearing on our lives. In recent time we use the term “Cultural Genocide” as if it were fashionable to do so. We pass judgement on matter of “Cultural Genocide” while sitting on the “bench” under the very “culture” introduced to us by those we accuse. To me apology and monetary compensation is not the way to appease those in the incident of so-called “Cultural Genocide”. In addition it is incumbent upon us (particularly for those of us who are Christians) to imbue and inspire forgiveness to the very people we are to render apology. Only through forgiveness one can find peace and freedom of the heart. “Forgiveness does not change the past, but it does enlarge the future”-Paul Boese.  “When we forgive we are destroying barriers, we come closer to others”-Jean Vanier. “It is in pardoning that we are pardoned” – St Francis of Assisi.

Perhaps popular culture makes cowards of us all and leads us to finger-pointing at (and blaming) others and at history. I recall the thought I had as I was approaching the City of St. James towards the end of my pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela …In conformity with popular culture we “prefer to remember the ills of some but choose to inter the good of so many with their bones”.

The journey begins…

Vladimir Lenin, following the success of the Russian Revolution, moved the capital of Russia from St. Petersburg to Moscow. Modern day Moscow has been capital and the cultural hub of Russia since March 5 1918. It is the capital of a country spanning eleven time zones, from St. Petersburg (Russia’s “Window to the West”) all the way to Vladivostok. There are three ways to travel by train from Moscow to Beijing:- Trans-Russian, Trans-Mongolian and Trans-Manchurian. With Manchuria in mind I decided we would take the Trans-Manchurian route. We flew into Moscow from Toronto Pierson International airport by Finnair via Helsinki. Having spent a night in Helsinki we arrived Moscow on the auspicious day of May 13th (refer to my blog “Solitude (Subiaco), Italy regarding the significance of “13th”).

The Red Square. Historically the Square had been used occasionally as a site for the coronation of Russia’s tsars. It has been used frequently since as a place for official ceremonies by all Russian governments.

The Kremlin wall by the Moscow River

Looking at Saint Basil’s Cathedral on Red Square, Moscow.

Komsomolskaya Metro Station

A night view of the The Bolshoi Theatre. The Theatre is a historic theatre designed (by architect Joseph Bove) to hold performances of ballet and opera .

Anyone who is a traveler (and I don’t mean just a tourist) and has spent considerable time overseas and internationally will understand and appreciate that travel, above everything else, builds bridges between nations, countries, religions, cultures, people and races.

Russian Orthodox Pentecost Sunday procession

It is not the purpose of this article to talk about the sights and sounds of Moscow which we did enjoy immensely. Suffice to mention here an incident that happened to us during our short stay in this urban sprawl. On the third day of our stay (having visited some of the more popular and famous landmarks in Moscow) we decided to walk to the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour. It was Sunday 15th May 2016. After having walked quite a distance we realized that we were lost. I then sat down on the steps of a local church and tried to locate our position on the city map which had been given to us by the by our hotel. Suddenly we witnessed a procession of some kind. To me it was a parade of humility. It reminded me of Micah 6:8 (KJV). This was Pentecost Sunday…

St. Paul also describes the reality of being a Christian disciple: “I have been crucified with Christ and I no longer live, but Christ lives in me. The life I live in the body, I live by faith in the Son of God, who loved me and gave himself for me” (Galatians 2:20).

Perhaps bias media and politics had given me a wrong impression of a country and its people…

Earlier I had to quickly moved away from the steps of this church as the procession was approaching.

Events happen and people come into our lives for a purpose. Events happened so that we may learn or draw experience from them for the common good. Some people come into our lives to show us the right path for the common good; some will lead us astray. I believe the paraclete (holy spirit) acts only for the common good. What is not for the common good is of the other spirit that has gone out into the world-1 John 4:1 (KJV) “Beloved, believe not every spirit, but try the spirits whether they are of God: because many false prophets are gone out into the world”.

After “accidentally” witnessing the Pentecost procession we went (again) on our way to “SEEK” the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour. In the end we would “FIND” the Cathedral somehow with the help of three young Moscovites who were very eager to show us the way on this Pentecost Sunday.

On the way to The Cathedral of Christ the Saviour

The Cathedral of Christ the Saviour

A happy wedding at the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour

I learned that the original Cathedral (consecrated in 1883) was demolished in the year 1931 under the espoused “state atheism” in that era.  Reconstruction began after the fall of the Soviet Union and the present Cathedral was completed in 2000. Today on our visit to this Cathedral we saw a beautiful footbridge leading to it from Bachug across the river and on one side of the Cathedral stood the  commemorative statues of Alexander II and Nicholas II. The Cathedral square is graced by chapels framed after the same design of the Cathedral. This was the venue for the canonization of the (last) Tsar Nicholas II and his family in the year 2000.

After having enjoyed the sights sounds and foods of this fascinating city we began our Trans-Siberian train journey—one of the greatest train journeys in the world.

The Petrovsky Boulevard of Moscow

A huge Selection on Barbecue Grills

Some cultural dancers

Russian Satay Prawns

Russian cheese cake

Into the unknown

I had already planned for quite sometime, even though with some trepidation, to cross by train, the enormous Asian continent encompassing two of the largest countries in the world. Russia, with its enormous land mass, at 17,075,200 square kilometres, is geographically the largest country on the globe; and China (currently) in population count is also the largest country in the world: http://www.worldometers.info/world-population/china-population/.

Our train from Moscow to Irkutsk

Security on the platform of the railway station

Chinese cabin attendants (from Moscow to Irkutsk) who related to us their experience across this frozen land in the middle of the severe Siberian winters.

Nobody, well may be a few or some, would want to go to Siberia. Many think of Siberia as an endless place with fields of ice as far as the eyes can see or they imagine a terrible exile there from which there is no return. On  15th July 2016 at 11:30 pm we found ourselves at the Yaroslavsky station soon to begin embarkation on this journey into the “unknown”. We waited at the Station for our train #04 to pull along side platform 1 for us. We boarded the train and entered into our coach with high hope and much anticipation. These coaches (a bit dated) were lined with carpets (well patronized) and framed in wood effect paneling. The berths were covered with red silk seat covers (of another era). We had a compartment with two berths, a shared sink and shower between two adjoining cabins – there are doors which can be locked on both sides. The configuration of our cabin was a lower and an upper berth with a single seat on one side of a small table. Upon boarding we were provided with clean white towels, white bedsheets and white pillow cases. Our neighbour in the adjoining cabin was a Russian woman by the name of Yanna who had emigrated to New Zealand and was now living in that country. This was her trip back home after having visited her relatives in Moscow. Yanna turned out to be a much sought after interpreter for Alexander (our random acquaintance) and us…

The corridor of our train from Moscow to Irkutsk

The configuration of our cabin was a lower and an upper berth with a single seat on one side of a small table. The berths were covered with red silk seat covers (of another era)

Upon boarding we were provided with clean white towels, white bed sheets and white pillow cases.

Alexander (our random acquaintance) with Yanna (our random interpreter )

With the compliment of Alexander our generous random acquaintance.

Separated by a cabin on the other side away from us was Alexander, an influential Russian economist and businessman (whom we eventually found out). To me he was influential enough to make phone calls to his contacts to bring him food and medicine at various train stops along the way. Alex, an amazing man with tremendous generosity, who did not speak much English would show us photos of his family and friends on his laptop computer. Intermittently, he would share with us the provisions brought onto the trains for him by his contacts. It is because of Alex that we had the opportunity to enjoy Russian “pizza” and fruits among other Russian home-style meals and savory … In consequence thereof we only had one meal a day in the dining car even though there was an excellent Chinese chef on board who had made me a great train breakfast of bacon and eggs (sunny side up).

My  breakfast on the train from Moscow to Irkutsk .

Dining car of the train from Moscow to Irkutsk.

So these strangers came into our lives. What was the purpose of it all? Perhaps to widen my horizon and to teach me and let me understand that not all Russians are like those demonized by some bias Western media.  Alexander, Yanna, May and I would spend several days (trying to understand each other) enjoying each others company during those long train rides heading towards the very edge of Western Russia before crossing the Ural mountains towards Siberia. On board our train were also 11 German scientists and veterinarians. We all admired (and some of us took photographs of) the vistas passing the seemingly unending tracks through the forests of Siberia as we headed deep into the very heart of Asia. Regrettably Alexander and yanna were taking the express route to Beijing which meant they would not disembark with us at Irkutsk Siberia. So we thanked them and bade adieu (late at night) as we would be disembarking at Irkursk in the wee hour of the next morning.

Miles of unending tracks passing through Siberia

Locomotive of our train from Moscow to Irkutsk.

Carriages of our train from Moscow to Irkutsk

The endless Siberian forests near the Altai region

A remote village in Siberia seen from our train…

Five days and with approximately 4199 kilometers (2609 miles) behind us our train wound its way into the city of Irkutsk. Irkutsk was founded in 1661 as a settlement for trading gold and furs but has grown into a city of about 600,000. The city proper lies on the bank of the Angara river. Today, it is home to several universities and a major branch of the Russian Academy of Sciences. It is a major stop for the Trans-Siberian Railway as it lies halfway between Moscow and the two eastern terminus cities of Bejing and Valdivostok. In the planning for this journey I did some research about Siberia as we would be going into the “unknown” (leaving the rest to faith and hope; much as we did during our pilgrimage on the Camino de Santiago). Although not very much is revealed to me by Google I had decided to make Irkutsk as a place to break our Trans-Siberian train journey for a few days and to spend sometime to enjoy ourselves in the culture of this region.

Sunrise in Irkutsk seen from The Angara Hotel

Epiphany Cathedral (built in 1718–1746)

Professional filming of some scenic spots of the city of Irkutsk

St. Peter and St. Fevronia from Murom (Orthodox patrons of the family)

Inside a Russian Orthodox Churches in Irkutsk

As we strolled along the back street of this magnificient city we met a curious old lady who was earger to get to know us (only if we spoke the language).

Many of the wooden houses in Irkutsk adorned with hand-carved decorations had survived and stand today in contrast with the surrounding Soviet apartment blocks.

Another interesting old wooden house which has survived in the modern part of Irkutsk

On the way to The Church of St. Nicholas (under restoration) in Irkutsk

To Lake Baikal

On the day after we arrived Irkutsk we decide to visit Lake Baikal (the largest and deepest fresh water lake in the world) which lie approximately 72 kilometers (45 miles) away from Irkutsk. It is believed that Baikal is the world’s most ancient freshwater lake. Although more than 300 streams and rivers flow into Lake Baikal it has only one outlet, the Angara. We hired a car for 5 hours having in mind to spend about 3 hours at lake Baikal with an hour (each way) getting there. Georgy our driver (unlike some reckless ones we had encounterd in Moscow) turned out to be very courteous to us and respectful of our needs.

Lake Baikal is about 72 kilometers from Irkutsk

Lake Baikal the largest and deepest fresh water lake in the world. It is estimated that that one-fifth of all the fresh water in the world is located here at Lake Baikal.

Georgy our very careful driver.

Hotel Baikal

We had three hours to spend at Baikal Lake. It was lunch time so we decided to have lunch in one of the restaurants which specialised in grilled Baikal fish. The fish coming right off the lake needless to say were really fresh . However unlike sea water fish, fresh water fish tend to be a little more bony and bland because of the lack of salt in them. Georgy was waiting patiently for us in his car. By the time we returned to the car after lunch he had already had his sandwiches and was smoking his Russian cigarette. It took us a bit longer on our return trip because of the heavy traffic by the time we reached the outshirt of the city. We stayed one more day in Irkutsk and decided to visit the embankment and the local open market before departing for the next leg of our journey to Beijing.

Sidewalk by Lake Baikal

May having a look and taking a photo of the special Baikal clay bread-maker oven

Freshly baked loaves inside the Baikal clay bread-maker oven.

The weather was begining to change on our visit to the open market in Irkutsk

Strolling along the embankment by Angara River

Back to the market in Irkutsk before we boarded the train for the next leg of our journey heading for Beijing.

To Zabaykalsk

Our train from Irkutsk to Zabaykalsk onwards to Beijing

Lake Baikal as seen from our train on the way to Ulan Ude before it skirted along the Mongolian border heading eastward towards Manchuria (Northern China).

The Corridor in our train to Beijing – a passage way which enables us access to separate cabins or compartments

Our cabin on the train from Irkutsk to beijing with convertable twin berths

Our cabin attendant checking on the boiler for hot water on the train from Irkutsk to Beijing.

Alexander, unbeknown to us, had already informed his contact in Zabaykalsk about us even before we arrived Irkutsk. His contact actually was the manager of one of his two duty-free shops at the Russian/Chinese borders. So When we arrived Zabaykalsk, Tatania (Alexander’s Manager) and Irena were at the platform of the station to greet and welcome us. Tatania, who was not conversant in English, was helped by Irena who had studied at Transbaikal State University. With the help of a driver (Victor) and acomfortable van they took us to see many interesting places before treating us to a sumptuous lunch.

At City Park in Zabaykalsk with Tatania and Irena

Zabaykalsk Russian Orthodox Church

Collecting pendants of St. Nicholas

Tatania treated us to a sumptuous lunch.

A close-up of the trio as we went up the hill overlooking the Russian/Chinese border.

Tatania had brought us provisions for the trip from Zabaykalsk to Beijing while saying “Прощание (farewell)” to us. We were so grateful and felt blessed with the generosity and kindness of these complete strangers who had crossed path with us along our journey…

To Manzhouli

A distant view of the Chinese border from a hill on the outskirt of Zaibakal town Russia

Zabaykalsk, I am given to understand, has been a trans-shipment  station for a “break of gauge” since the 1930s. Around that time the Russian Railway for the Chinese side was sold by the USSR to Manchukuo and converted from the 1,520 mm (4 ft 11 ²⁷⁄₃₂ in) gauge of the Russian Railways to the 1,435 mm (4 ft 8 ¹⁄₂ in) of the China Railways –

“One common method to avoid transshipment is to build cars to the smaller of the two systems’ loading gauges loading gauges with bogies that are easily removed and replaced, with other bogies at an interchange location on the border. This takes a few minutes per car, but is quicker than transshipment of goods. A more modern and sophisticated method is to have multigauge bogies whose wheels can be moved inward and outward. Normally they are locked in place, but special equipment at the border unlocks the wheels and pushes them inward or outward to the new gauge, relocking the wheels when done. This can be done as the train moves slowly over special equipment.” https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zabaykalsk. I had no idea which method they used for our train because I was not able to see what they did. May and I, together with the travellers from Germany were told to wait inside the railway station in Manchukuo while works was being done on our train (which was running on different gauge width).

Border Crossing Russia/China

The Russian townlet of Zabaykalsk  is situated across Manzhouli where we also spent a few hours to clear customs and immigration into China. I was now on Chinese soil. In ancient times the area was inhabited by many tribes that lived in Manchuria. I am given to understand that during the decline of China’s last dynasty the house of Qing (1644–1912) ceded the outer Manchurian territory to Russia in the 1858 under the Treaty of Aigun.  Argun River which originates in this area effectively is now the border between the China and Russia. I had, in my teenage years, learned about the massacres against the Hakkas Hongs “Fungs” by the Manchurians in the aftermath of Taiping Civil War. To me, what had transpired in the past should now just remain a part of our history. We may not be able (or may be there is no need for us) to forget but we can or should be able to forgive. It is in our forgiveness that we are forgiven.

We arrived Manzhouli where we had to clear customs and immigration as we entered Chinese territory and jurisdiction.

By coincidence we met “Liew Li” an official at the Manzhouli Station check-point. “Liew” is the family name of my mother.

Leaving Manzhouli for Harbin China. Harbin is famous for its winter festivals.

Our train arrived Harbin Station.

Listening to interesting stories and enlightening ourselves talking with fellow passengers.

We spent a full day (our last) on the train passing through the lands of mysteries, rice fields, vast factories in smoky and smoggy industrial cities (of this economic power house) onto the ancient Capital of The Middle Kingdom.

Wind turbines in the mystic land of rural China

We helped our cabin staff to clear our compartment.

Saying “Goodbye ” to Inna our “Host”.

Price of progress?

Vast factories in smoky and smoggy industrial cities

Arrived Beijing  West Railway Station

Beijing West Railway Station platform

Chinese High-speed rail

As we had already been to Beijing on other occasions we decided to spend only two days in this progressive ancient city. From Beijing we would take the fast (high-speed) train south to Hangzhou to see Richard our neighbour (in Canada) who originally came from Hangzhou.

Just a thought: In Hangzhou we would meet up with Richard from our old neighbourhood in Coquitlam British Columbia Canada. So unexpectedly Richard and Irene had somehow come into our lives (in Canada). Richard, who was at the time in China when we arrived, picked us up from Hangzhou East train station. He spent three days with us showing us all the wonderful sights of this beautiful city and then drove us to the airport for our direct flight to Sabah… That is another story… but more importantly, who is your “neighbour”?

“But he, willing to justify himself, said unto Jesus, And who is my neighbour?” – Luke 10:29 (KJV).