“I cannot remember the books I’ve read any more than the meals I have eaten even so they have made me “-Ralph Waldo Emerson. Sometimes we read what we like.…
On 28th October 2014, we arrived in Athens (the port of Piraeus) by ship from the Holy Land on our way back to Fort Lauderdale. Because our ship was to…
It was 24 th October 2014. A day on which I would be visiting the most important sites in Jerusalem to feel the “presence” of the Holy City and perhaps…
It was the worst of time and the best of time. It was October 13th 2014, and on this day, we would fly from Vancouver, Canada, to Frankfurt en-route for…
The title of this post may appear to be a misnomer. As we understand it, “culture” as defined means the beliefs, customs, arts, etc., of a particular social group, place,…
This particular Camino (Camino Frances) leads from St. Jean Pied de Port in Southern France to Santiago de Compostela’s ancient city in Galicia, Spain, stretching over 800 km. It is an ancient path changing and transforming lives over the centuries and is indeed the most popular Christian pilgrimage route in the world. It was proclaimed the first European Cultural Itinerary in 1987 and inscribed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1993.
Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port
In publishing this blog, I hope to motivate viewers who are interested and have intended or intend to take this journey. As for me, the inspiration, teachings, and lessons derived from this pilgrimage will last a lifetime.
I had been training for this since the summer of 2012, and by August 2013, I was ready for the challenge to trek the 800 km with my backpack weighing about 7.5 kgs. I started on August 25th, 2013, after spending some time in the beautiful French village of Saint Jean Pied de Port (having arrived there by trains from CDG Terminal via Bayonne two days before).
Taking my first step at Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port.
I trekked over the Pyrenees and across 4 regions of Northern Spain (cornfields, vineyards, chestnut trees, and bare muddy or rocky grounds), interacting with many people of different cultures from around the world. After having walked about 700 km and having taken advice, I decided at the idyllic town of Sarria (the prevalent starting point for the last stage of Camino Frances) to have my accommodation pre-booked and my backpack transferred daily. The weight on my back was reduced to that of a day-pack. Symbolically my burden was also lightened. It took me 52 days (40 walking days) to complete this physical and spiritual journey, whereas some managed to finish it in 33.
There are two ways to cross over the Pyrenees from St. Jean Pied de Port France into Roncesvalles Spain. My desire was not to walk the Route de Napoleon because I was not an experienced hiker. I decided to take The Way of St. James through Valcarlos instead. “We do not choose life, but to live it, we need to make choices.”
The Beginning 25/08/13
This strenuous route takes us through the woods up and down steep hills and valleys away from the dangerous N-135
25/08/13 Beautiful view of the countryside and rolling hills along our way to Valcarlos
In Basque country (Navarre) on the second day…We were being tested and had to cross the Pyrenees in a miserable condition because the rain in Spain does not fall mainly on the plain… It was drizzling as we were trekking through the woods up the Pyrenees. These hazel and beech woods (and further up pine trees) provided us with reasonable cover from the wind and also would have provided shades on the way had the hot Summer sun appeared.
26/08/13 After spending our first night in Valcarlos, we got ready for the journey into Roncesvalles.
26/08/13 We were on our own and at our own walking speed taking in the countryside’s scenic beauty.
26/8/13 Puerto de Ibañeta Alt 1055m Pyrenees and we were grateful for the rain ponchos we packed. Despite the heavy downpour (perhaps our test at the start of this journey), we were full of joy…
26/8/13 On this day, our view from high above the Pyrenees
We met a young couple from Brazil who took our photo at Puerto de Ibañeta. They brought with them their bicycles and, with limited time, they were hoping to finish the Camino France on bikes in 12 days…
26/08/13 Arrived Roncesvalles after an arduous and strenuous hike over the Pyrenees and ready for a beer at La Posada
27/8/13 On the way to Zubiri, after passing through the Navarese village of Burguette, where Ernest Hemingway used to stay.
I walked 22.5 km with some very rough sections leading down to Zubiri…however, on this day, we were walking in the glorious Spanish sunshine.
28/8/13 Early pilgrims starting from Zubiri
28/08/13 Soon to Arrive Pamplona famous worldwide for the San Fermín, the running of the bulls festival held in July.
29/08/13 Cathedral Santa Maria Pamplona. We stayed an extra day in Pamplona to visit the Church of St. Nicolas and The Cathedral of Santa Maria (had the rare opportunity to watch and listen to the organ being tuned and played)…..with extra time to walk Calle la Estafeta (The Bull Run)
The fleece came out from our backpacks for the first time this early Sunday morning at 9ºC (felt like 6º). By midday, we left behind our beloved scallop shells at Puerto Irago/Cruz de Ferro, a humble monument marking the majestic spot at 1504 m above sea level (the highest point on our Camino), adding these tokens of love and blessing to the enormous pile that bears witness to the collective journey of ours and the thousands of pilgrims who have gone before…
I got a taste of the “Bull Run” culture.
Sunflower bed outside Pamplona
30/08/13 Trekking up to the summit of Alto del Perdon 11.4 km from Pamplona.
Monumento Peregrino at Alto del Perdon is an iconic sculpture dedicated to all the pilgrims who walk the Camino de Santiago. The long metal sculpture depicts pilgrims on foot and some on horseback, reflecting the historical and eternal nature of the walk…“where the path of the wind crosses that of the stars.” It is one of the great landmarks of the Camino.
30/08/13 Approaching Cirauqui. Today we struggled for 24.1 km up and over the windy hills and then down to the plain and got roasted by the Spanish Summer sun in the process.
30/08/13 Puente La Reina was named in honor of Dona Mayor’s wife, Sancho III, who commanded this Romanesque bridge to support the increasing number of pilgrims. We relaxed in Puente la Reina….visited Iglesias Santiago (church of Saint James of Romanesque origin) & Church of the Crucifix….with bonus time to watch a movie crew filming on the bridge (Puenta la Reina).
01/09/13 Puente La Reina to Estella (reminder: Exodus 17:1-7)
02/09/13 Pilgrims queuing for the wine. Along the Camino, Frances Bodegas Irache has a Wine Fountain on the wall (Just outside the town of Estella) so that pilgrims can serve themselves a free glass of wine to spur them on their way…
02//09/13
02/09/13 Time for lunch under a tree. The only shade in the hot sun along a 5 km stretch from Cruce to Los Arcos after taking our coffee break in the village of Villamayor de Monjarin.
02/09/13 Night scene of Los Arcos
A crossroad town straddling between Estella and Logrono
03/09/13. Water fountain by The Viana Iglesia de Santa Maria Maria with a recessed doorway
03/09/13 The most hungry pilgrim was the first one to enter the restaurant for the pilgrim dinner…
03/09/13 …but the place was quickly filled
A typical pilgrim dinner menu showing selections. The dinner comes with dessert, a bottle of water, and a bottle of wine gratis.
04/09/13 Cathedral of Logrono
05/09/13 Logrono …Just one for nostalgia
05/ 09/ 13 We took an extra day of rest in Logrono to rejuvenate our weary bodies
06/09/13 Daybreak on the way from Logrono to Navarette
06/09/13 Pilgrims approaching Navarette with a discourse on the meaning of the bull -a statue on the hill in front of us
06/09/13 Passing through many vineyards on the way to Navarette
07/09/13 On the way to Najera with threatening overcast that soon cleared up for us to have lunch at the rest area.
On 07/09/13
This “hive” is for inclement weather, I suppose.
07/09/13 Najera, a historic town (with a strong connection with The Camino de Santiago), was in the kingdom of Navarra in the 11th and 12th centuries
08/09/13 To Santo Domingo de la Calzada
09/09/13 A view of the Church of Santo Domingo from a distance behind me at the breaking of dawn on a new day as we continue with our Journey…
Santo Domingo de la Calzada owes its inspiration to Saint Dominic (Spanish: Santo Domingo 1170 – August 6 (1221), a Spanish priest and founder of the Dominican Order. He effectively dedicated part of his life to improving the pilgrims’ route by building many of the bridges we passed through. This was in the 11th century, so they have been rebuilt many times, but his spirit is alive.
09/09/13 with fellow pilgrims from Ireland
09/09/13 Small world…Met a university student Eve from France, who had recently spent some time in Kota Kinabalu with a family we know.
09/09/13 Showing a modern-day pilgrim from San Francisco how to use “WhatsApp ” to communicate with her son studying at SFU.
10/09/13 Potable water near Villafranca de Montes de Orc
10/09/13
10/09/13 A view from our room in Hotel San Anton Abad in Villafranca Montes de Orca
11/09/13 The 13th century Burgos Gothic has been embellished by master architects and builders down through the century. Inside the Cathedral, we saw a unique and magnificent collection of works of art treasures and artifacts, including paintings, carvings, choir stalls, and stained-glass windows. This morning we entered the Cathedral by the evocative south door. We were immediately mesmerized by the magnificent wealth of art treasures and artifacts (even though the transept crossing was relatively crowded). However, we eventually found peace in Igliasia San Nicolas (next to the Cathedral) while avoiding the maddening crowd watching the closing of a bicycle race…
We entered through the evocative South door passing many treasures and crossing the transept to the lovely Renaissance Golden Staircase.
The tranquility inside the Burgos Cathedral and Iglesia Nicolas was contrasted by the noisy finish of Stage 16 of the Vuelta an España (bicycle tour) Wednesday, September 11, 2013, Calahorra – Burgos 189
The winding-up of Stage 16 of the Vuelta an España (bicycle tour) 2013 in Burgo
12/09/13 Who is counting?
A serene scene of sheep grazing in the ground of Meseta (where there is no shade to protect pilgrims from the sun) as we were being ferried after seeking dispensation.
A view of the church of St. Pedro XII from our hostel San Pedro Fromista on the evening of 13/09/1
14/09/13 Early start for “free pilgrim.”
Church of San Martin (a church built in the 11th century in Romanesque style) in Frómista Palencia.
14/09/14 A comforting sight at the break of dawn.
14/09/13 Coffee break on the way from Fromista to Carrion de Los Condes
14/09/13 St. Francis of Assisi museum
14/09/13 Pilgrims who had to spend the night in the open near the village of Carrion de Los Condes
15/09/13 Early pilgrims on the way to Calzadilla de la Cueza
15/09/13 “Public Convenience”? We walked on the Via Aquintana (the paved Roman road with little shade) for about 17.25 km and decided to stay in a private* Albergue at Calzadilla de la Cueza…
15/09/13 Some enterprising soul putting up a breakfast stand for pilgrims on a stretch of 11.4 km without facilities. What you see is what you get…
15/09/13 “Energy food” at Calzadilla de la Cueza
15/09/13 Friendly and hospitable folk (not just pointing but) walking with us and showing us the way to the village parish church
16/09/13 Our early morning long shadows preceding us on the way to Terradillos de Templarios
17/09/13 P Early pilgrims leaving Moratinos
17/09/13 pilgrims took a rest at the peaceful village linked to the Templars San Nicolas del Real Camino with the parish church Iglesia de San Nicolas, which was under restoration when we were there.
17/09/13 The Ermita Virgin del Puente brought me across to an unpretentious sanctuary ( the original hospice went) of with the 12th-century Romanesque foundation
17/09/13 Pilgrims on the way to Sahagun
Passed through another peaceful village (San Nicolas del Real Camino) linked to the Templar Order and then proceeded to Sahagun to see what (little) remain of the famous abbey of San Benito, which was founded in the 10th century and rose to become one of the most important Benedictine monasteries in Spain.
17/09/13 Evening walk to Arco San Benito Sahagun
18/09/13 Leaving Sahagun after a restful night at Domus Viatoris. In the early morn, leaving Arco San Benito continued our Camino for El Burgo Ronero, passing Puente Canto, a historic stone bridge.
Punte Canto a historic bridge originally Romanesque but reconstructed in the 11th and 16th centuries with its strong arches, which have stood the test of time.
18/09/13 Staying and enjoy a beer at Hostal el Peregrino in El Burgo Raneros
19/09/13 Sunrise at El Burgo Raneros
19/09/13 We took the Real Camino France with modern senda on the way from El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas .
Realizing that we would be unable to travel like Emperor Augustus on the Roman road from El Burgo Ranero to Leon, we continued on the Camino via Mansilla de las Mullas and took refuge here for the night after walking 19.1 km
19/09/13 Trying very hard to understand
20/09/13 Pilgrims (are recommended to) take a bus for the short stretch into the City of Leon because of the dangerous road traffic along the route which pilgrims have to compete with!
Leon-a a former Roman Garrison and base for its VII Legion.
Leon Cathedral Pulchra Leonina’s Gothic splendor towered above my head (an imposing presence bristling with spires and strongly built buttresses).
20/09/13 I walked into the Cathedral with awe craning my neck to look at the tapestry of lights flowing through (and down onto the floor) from rows of magnificent luminous stained glass windows
20/09/13 We spent two days in Leon (even though we could spend days here and not be able to see half of it) and had the opportunity to watch Cultural dances at the Plaza at night
22/09/13 My thought was tinged with sadness in leaving Leon as we look for the embedded Camino Shells to be on our way.
I was rewarded with this delicious Pulpo at a restaurant near Villa Paloma in La Virgen del Camino, just on the outskirts.
23/09/13 Like most pilgrims, we took the pilgrim’s alternative route via Valverde to Villadangos del Paramo
After spending some time in Virgen del Camino’s sanctuary, another beautiful sunrise greeted us this morning… In the accommodation search, we will enter Villadangos del Paramo (where we hope to get a glimpse of the statue of Santiago Matamoros) instead of the more popular Villar de Mazarife.
A church building that has long been abandoned
23/09/13 We were the early pilgrims at the breakfast joint at Valverde, but speedy young pilgrims soon caught up with us.
23/09/13 The parish church Iglesia de Santiago in Villadangos del Paramo (an old town of Roman origins).
The parish church Iglesia de Santiago which is still being used but was closed for service at the time we arrived at Villadangos del Paramo
The statute of Santiago Matamoros is seen leaping out towards us.
From Iglesia de Santiago (where Santiago Matamoros’ statue leaped out towards us), the Camino continued on a path adjacent to N-120. This was our most noisy day on the Camino. However, we managed to find relative peace and joy in casual conversation (in broken Spanish supplemented by sign language) with some folks working in their fields…
24/09/13 Learning and giving a helping hand
24/09/13 Cornfields as far as our eyes could see
24/09/13 I am lost for words and have no comment on this photo.
24/09/13 One of the longest and well preserved medieval bridges and a landmark on the Camino
24/09/13 Our dinner at Hospital de Orbigo, but I didn’t think it was from Rio Orbigo
25/08/13 Too early for me to tell what this is in the light of dawn
Today the Camino took us once again to the serenity and peacefulness of the countryside and further into the beautiful city of Astorga, where we welcome the modern facilities in the midst of its ancient splendor…
25/09/13 By now, I was getting used to seeing this sort of things
Why does it remind me of another place in another country?
Enjoying some Spanish music before entering Astorga
25/09/13 The city of Astorga is in the distance…
In Astorga, we felt the passing of the centuries. The evolution of religious architecture enthralled us. The Astorga Cathedral (Cathedral Santa Maria took centuries to build with construction beginning in 1471 and completed only in the 18th century) and the renaissance Antonio. Gaudi’s Bishop’s Palace (with its Baroque main facade) are good examples of this evolution…
We entered Astorga, being greeted by the Cathedral Santa Maria standing majestically over the square (Plaza Cathedral) and the Episcopal Palacio (Bishop’s Palace) with its turrets soaring towards heaven…
The Renaissance altarpiece with a Romanesque statue of Virgen de la Majestad
Stain glass windows in The Episcopal Palacio
27/09/13 We depart Astorga after spending two nights there and with me still looking and pointing at magnificent buildings with admiration
A Hermitage welcoming pilgrims from all over the world
We left Astorga on a cool sunny morning. Still, soon the weather began to change (the first rain since we last experienced it in the Pyrenees), making it necessary for us to seek shelter in one of the villages (Castrillo de Polvazares) somewhere in the west of the Province of Leon.
28/09/13 We spent the night in Castrillo de Polvazares
We woke up at 6:30 am, or perhaps we were awakened by the rain. We debated and decided to proceed with our journey despite the miserable condition. This early morning we were tested in the pouring rain felt forsaken and “lost.” Having walked perhaps less than 200 meters, a small car stopped in front of us on the cobbled-stone road. The driver wound down his window and spoke to us, which we could not comprehend. All we could deduce from his waving hand is a sign of “No.” Since he sensed no comprehension on our part, he got out of his car (despite the rain), pointed to the direction of our path, and waved that “no” sign again to us and, by another gesture, encouraged us to enter his vehicle. We looked at each other, and my intuition told me he could be trusted to give us a ride. He took us for about 10 kilometers on a slightly different route to the nearest village. I offered to pay him, which he flatly refused. Until today we have not the faintest idea why this happened. We know that it is most unusual for a Spanish man to be up at that hour…
28/09/13 Suddenly, an “angel” appeared at the break of dawn to encourage us, advised us not to proceed further, and offered to take us to the next village to join other pilgrims for hot tea.
28/09/13 Santa Catalina de Somoza, where our “angel” took us to and where we had hot tea with fellow pilgrims
28/09/13 Continuing on our Journey after being rescued by our “angel.”
28/09/13 ” Lord…be our consolation during rejection, and the power of our intention, so that under your guidance, safely and unhurt, we may reach the end of our pilgrimage”.
28/09/13 Iglesia Santa Mari. The Templar Knights were here in the 12th century to protect pilgrims. It is believed they built this church.
28/09/13 Iglesia Santa Maria was blessed with the opportunity to attend a vesper service with Gregorian chants conducted by Benedictine monks from Bavaria. Photography was not actually allowed during service, but I managed to sneak in one (with reverence) for remembrance.
29/09/13.
29/09/13 Manjarin, a little mountain refuge (with misty surroundings and atmosphere), where we took a break at the invitation of coffee’s aroma.
29/09/13 Cruz de Ferro
30/09/13 An early start for Molinaseca from the village of Acebo.
29/09/13 Evening with our hosts, who cooked us a delicious dinner and made sumptuous sandwiches for us the following day.
30/09/13 On the way to Molinaseca (onward to Ponferrada) with one of the most scenic views on our Camino
30/09/13/ A Roman bridge which took me over to the delightful village of Molinaseca and the Church of St. Nicolas on the rise
We were able to view the displays of replicas of Templar and other religious texts in the Templum Libri.
On 30/09/13, We arrived in Ponferrada. The magnificent 12th century Castillo de Los Templarios had recently reopened after extensive renovations.
30/09/13 Spending two nights in The Templar Hotel arriving in Ponferrada after walking on the most gruesome section of the Camino (but compensated by beautiful countryside and sceneries)
O2/10/13 We saw this on the way to Cacabelos.
02/010/13 Hospitality shown by the farmers gave us grapes to quench our thirst and hunger.
03/10/13 The river flows through…
(3 October 2013) This donkey cries when we left. May told me to go back to talk to him. After I explained to him that we had to be on our way to Santiago de Compostela, he let us leave quietly.
03/10/13 An old olive press
03/10/13 Entering Villafranca del Bierzo, where we spent two nights.
04/10/13 The Church of St. Nicholas, which now is the Convent of the Padres Paúles.
04/10/13 This delightful town began to develop in this idyllic spot along with the Camino France in the 11th century.
03/10/13 An evening at the Plaza Mayor with cafe tables spilling out into the square.
05/10/13 We began before daybreak our challenging and strenuous walk up the mountain via Trabadelo towards Vega de Valcour
05/10/13 High above the cloud
05/10/13 The sun has come through, and we are now descending into the village of Vega de Valcare
05/10/13 At Vega de Valcare, we were rewarded with these most delicious ribs for pilgrim dinner
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